FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL-LEAVED POT PLANTS(1)

October 21, 2011 Garden Design / Uncategorized
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Many of the plants described below are more delicate than those grown in open beds : they have very definite likes and dislikes regarding position, for one may thrive on the sill of an open window while another will shrivel up and possibly die.  In the tropics particularly, environment is very important, since most houses are designed to take advantage of a prevailing wind and also have the maximum number of windows.  Draughts are fatal to many of the more delicate plants and this must be borne in mind for those kept in the house.

Again, a verandah of reasonable size will provide a range of conditions from shade to full sunlight and plants must therefore be positioned according to their likes and dislikes.  Fortunately, there is such a wide variety of choice that it is comparatively simple to make a collection which will fit in with the particular conditions.

Wherever possible, watering should be done by plunging, but this can be a rather arduous undertaking; it will probably be easier to provide most of the smaller pots with saucers which can be filled with water daily, allowing the water to seep up slowly through the compost in the pot.  It is better to do this than water from the top, as this usually results in the top layer of soil becoming a hard crust.

Most pot plants will benefit from an occasional spraying of the leaves, and for this purpose a fine Flit spray will be found to be useful.  Some plants, however, will not tolerate spraying, and the best way to deal with them in the dry season is to brush them carefully with an old softish toothbrush; hairy-leaved types need attention more frequently than others as if the leaves get too dusty they will not be able to perform their normal functions and the health of the plant will suffer accordingly.

The various methods of propagation are dealt with in a subsequent part of the book, so means of propagation are given here simply as : cuttings ; leaf cuttings; etc.

ANTHURIUM ANDREANUM (Araceae) : This species is known under many common names, including ‘Tail flower’ (anthos—flowe and oura—tail) and ‘Painter’s Palette’, derived from the form of the flower.  The large, waxy, scarlet flowers can grow to as much as 3 inches long by 2 inches wide, with the spadix up to 4 inches long.  The flowers are produced singly on tough, straight stems, and last well when cut.  The leaves, too, are very decorative.

This is not a difficult plant to cultivate, but it does need more drainage than most.  At least 2 inches of broken pot or hard rubble should be put in the bottom of the pot which should, of course, have an adequate number of drainage holes. J.I.P.C. No. 2 is a suitable mixture to use.

Young plants or off-shoots are potted so that the mixture is not above the main stem, with the tops of the roots also visible above the soil.  The young plant will take anything from twelve to eighteen months to bloom and it should be left to develop for at least three years before taking any cuttings.  It should be quite a good size in three years and will then have to be moved to a larger pot; the moving should be done carefully so that the roots are not damaged.

Can be grown from seed, but the flowers will have to be pollinated by hand.  The seed takes about twelve months to mature on the plant and, when sown, can take just as long to germinate.  It is not really worth the trouble taken to propagate by seed, unless it is desired to grow hybrids.

It is best to propagate by rooted off-shoots.

The plants like a moist atmosphere and thrive best when placed behind another plant which will shade the lower part.  Watering should be done from the bottom and the leaves sponged occasionally.  Likes a fair amount of shade.

BEGONIA (Begoniaceae) : This is a very large genus which provides many valuable species for the verandah and garden.  There are four main types and they are distinguished by different rooting systems : the bulbous (which does not usually do well in the tropics); the tuberous (which provides many of the larger flowering species); the rhizomatous (which includes all the beautiful rex species) and the fibrous-rooted (which includes the well known bedding species B. semperflorens as well as many of the larger types).

Begonias are comparatively easy to grow, and for this reason are well represented in most collections.  A good potting mixture is 2 parts of sterilized loam, 3 parts leaf mould and 1 part coarse sand.  If any old soot is available, this can be added at the rate of 1 lb. to every 28 lb. of mixture.

All the begonias listed below prefer partial shade, although some, like B. heracleifolia and B. semperflorens, will to do just as well in open beds.  They don’t want to be over-watered; in fact, they are better if kept on the dry side; some of the larger species grow too tall before flowering if overwatered.

B. HAAGEANA : One of the larger fibrous-rooted species which grows to 4 feet or more.  The large leaves are red veined above and have purple undersides.  Bears rose-pink flowers in clusters up to 12 inches wide.  Stem cuttings.

B. MACULATA : A very variable species.  Grows to a height of 3 feet, or more.  Leaves pale green with small white spots.  Graceful stems.  Flowers pale rose-pink in drooping panicles 4 to 5 inches across.  Stem cuttings.

B. x ‘PRESIDENT CARNOT’ : A lovely hybrid, fibrous rooted.  Strong, growing to 6 feet.  Leaves large dark green with silver spots on the surface and a maroon underside.  Flowers in large coral-red pendulous clusters, often up to 8 inches across.  One of the best specimens for the back of the verandah.  Rootstock can be split up or stem cuttings taken.  Can be cut back after a few years to make a bushy growth from the bottom.

B. REX : Again, a variable species.  Does not grow as tall as B. maculate and has a creeping rhizome rootstock.  Many valuable hybrids are available, with a wide range of vivid colour combinations in the leaves.  Needs special care as all B. Rex have a tendency to damp off.  Leaf cuttings.

PLANTS FOR HOUSE AND VERANDAH

October 20, 2011 Garden Design / Uncategorized
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Most of the plants used for indoor decoration in the colder climates are species, or have been developed from species, of plants which are indigenous to the tropics, where they have been grown in gardens or on verandahs for so many years.

The range of plants available for this form of decoration is so large that here they have been placed in five groups; although in each group there may be subjects which can be grown in beds as well as in pots, the soil, manorial treatment and light requirements are the same, whichever method of growing is adopted.

To produce a really good show of pot plants is no easy task; greater skill is required than for any other aspect of gardening, for this reason, the plant in a pot is completely dependent upon the care and attention it receives.  For example, in the house no rain can fortuitously arrive to save the pot plant that has been forgotten.  The suggestions made in the following pages may appear tedious, but they are necessary if good results are to be obtained.

To begin with, the use of a good mixture is essential.  Given below are the formulae for the famous John Innes Potting Composts, introduced by the John Innes Horticultural Institute, Bayfordbury:

John Innes Potting Compost No. I. (For potting seedlings in small pots)

Sterilised loam, preferably old rotted turf…7 parts by bulk

Peat………………………………………………………….3 parts by bulk

Coarse sand………………………………………………2 parts by bulk.

To the above, add to every 28 lb., ¾ oz. of chalk or ground limestone and 4 ounces of John Innes Base.  The latter is made up of the following:

Hoof and horn (1/8” grist)…………………2 parts by weight

Superphosphate of lime…………………….2 parts by weight

Sulphate of potash…………………………….1 parts by weight.

Peat is not easy to get in most parts of the tropics, but leaf mould can be used instead; if sulphate of potash is not available, muriate of potash can be substituted, using half the quantity stated.

Loam and leaf mould need sterilizing as they often contain fungus and bacteria which can be disastrous to pot plants : the sterilization can be done quite simply.  Boil ½ an inch of water in a saucepan and then fill the container with soil : simmer for fifteen minutes.  This will kill all the harmful organisms.  Do not sterilize loam and leaf mould together as they can chemically interact and in this way decrease the amount of plant food available.

John Innes Potting Compost No. 2 (For potting on plants into larger pots):

Sterilised loam………………………..7 parts by measure

Peat………………………………………..3 parts by measure

Coarse sand……………………………2 parts by measure.

Add to the above 1 ½ oz. of chalk or ground limestone and 8 oz. of John Innes Base to every 28 lb.

These two mixtures can be used for all pot plants, unless otherwise stated.

It is necessary to have some sheltered place, such as a potting shed or back verandah, in which to keep plants which are not being used; here those flowering plants which only look their best in bloom can be reserved until they are ready to take their place on display.

THE CARE OF LAWNS

October 19, 2011 Garden Design / Uncategorized
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The tropics, particularly the wetter parts, do not provide the best conditions for producing the perfect lawn.  It cloes seem to be asking rather a lot to expect grass to remain green during high rainfall and semi-drought, on land that is often very, very acid, using varieties of grass, too, which would make gardeners in temperate countries shudder at their coarseness.  And yet, lawns are established and maintained, and some of them develop a very good sward.

Lawns which have been established for several years often deteriorate quite rapidly.  There are various reasons for this deterioration : The soil may gradually have become increasingly acid until the point has been reached where mosses and lichens grow more easily than the grass; the grass may be in competition with some of the smaller-leaved trifoliums; or the soil may have become so compacted with hard usage that it becomes difficult for any plant life to live, other than the deeper rooted weeds.  Let us consider how these problems can be overcome.

Continuous dressings of nitrogenous fertiliser will for some time promote the necessary green growth, but gradually the soil will become unbalanced chemically and decidedly more acid.  This condition can be put right by the application of a liberal dressing of lime, and the chemical balance can be further improved by applying superphosphate at 2 oz. per square yard.  All patches of moss should be removed, together with the soil under them to a depth of 2 inches; fill with new soil the holes thus made and plant fresh grass.

Clover-leaved trifoliums can be a real nuisance, but an application of lawn sand will help; those runners which survive can be picked out later and the trouble should be overcome.  Lawn sand can be made up as follows:

35 parts sulphate of ammonia, 15 parts calcined sulphate of iron and 50 parts clean lime-free sand, all by weight.  Use at the rate of 3-4 ounces per square yard, sprinkled evenly over the affected parts.

It is easy to see where soil has become compacted, as rain water tends to lie about in a pool and does not soak away evenly.  This condition can be improved by forcing a strong garden fork in at frequent intervals to a depth of 3 to 4 inches, moving it about slightly while in the ground.  This will help to break up the soil under the surface.  The holes will soon fill in after the next rain.

Unfortunately, all the ingredients for a complete lawn fertiliser are not often available in the tropics, as it should include bone meal and dried blood.  However, a reasonable mixture can be made from 30 parts sulphate of ammonia, 65 parts superphosphate and 5 parts sulphate of potash (muriate of potash can be used but it is not as good).

A NEW LAWN : In making a new lawn, it is essential to cultivate the land to a good depth first, before incorporating riddled compost.  Then grass cuttings can be dibbled on in lines 6 inches apart across the surface.  The closer the cuttings are planted in the lines, the sooner the land will be covered.

Spreading grasses are best and, as most of these root readily from the nodes, individual pieces can be used.  An excellent grass is the well known ‘Carpet grass’, Axonopus compressus, but there are many others which can be used with success.

Lawn cutting with local knives is not a good practice and a lawn mower is well worth the money spent on it as a tremendous improvement will be seen in one season.  There are many types to choose from, but the heavier models with a roller are to be preferred.

Grass cuttings should not be left on the lawn, except during the first season after planting, but should be used in the compost heap.  If left, they will build up a mat which will later produce a condition which helps the spread of weeds.  When the new lawn is established, it may only need an application of fertiliser once a year at the onset of the rains; 2 oz. per square yard will be sufficient.

SUITABLE PLANTS FOR HEDGES

October 19, 2011 Garden Design / Uncategorized
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HEDGES

Plants grow so quickly in the tropics that those used for hedging need constant trimming; this is often done enthusiastically and incorrectly making the hedge thin at the bottom with parts dying out.

The sides of a hedge should never be cut so that they are absolutely vertical; they should be sloped slightly outwards towards the base.  The top of the hedge should be cut to slopes lightly upwards towards the centre, so retaining the natural growing point of the individual plants.

When a new hedge is to be established, dig a trench along the line where it is proposed to plant, at least a foot wide and a foot deep.  Fill with a mixture of compost and topsoil in equal parts and allow to settle for at least a week before planting.

Hedges can be established both from cuttings and seeds, but in any case it is better to plant in a double row to get a good thick bottom.  Cuttings should be about 9 inches in length and crossed.

New hedges need a lot of attention if they are to grow to be a credit to the garden.  Whether growing from cuttings or seed, it is as well to cut the hedge back to between 15 and 18 inches in the first season after planting; this should even out the top, and subsequent growth will be equal along the whole length; it also ensures that the maximum number of shoots is produced from near ground level, making the hedge permanently thick there.  After cutting, apply compost along each side to make sure there is sufficient food for the new growth.  If compost has to be kept for other plants use mixed fertiliser, but be careful not to get it on the leaves as it may scorch them.

The following year the hedge should again be cut back, but this time only to about 2 feet; from then on, progressively increase the height until it has reached what is required.

In large gardens, double hedges may well be considered, for then two entirely different materials may be used and controlled to different heights.  A good combination is the pale yellow-green leaved thevetia at the back, with the darker green Thunbergia  in front, but of course many other combinations will spring readily to mind.

ACALYPHA : The smaller-growing species, such as Wilkesiana and its varieties  make good hedges up to 4 feet, but should not be grown in areas where there is danger of mealy bug attack.  The dark leaves can be used very effectively against lighter-leaved shrubs.  Cuttings.

BIXA ORELLANA : Quick growing and excellent for a thick boundary hedge which does not need to be trimmed to shape.  Will make a solid, woody hedge of 6 feet in three to four years.  It is most attractive as the pink rose-like flowers are followed by prickly pods with bright red seeds.  Can be pruned hard, and the larger branches can be cut with a saw to keep it to the required height.  Seed.

BOUGAINVILLEA : The species glabra and its varieties make good thick boundary hedges, but they will nottrim to shape easily. Becomes almost impenetrable after three years, by which time it should be about 5 feet in height.  Will become untidy at the base if it is allowed to grow too high.  Flowers most of the year.  Cuttings.

BRUGMANSIA ARBOREA : Does very well at higher altitudes where it will make a large thick hedge.  An unforgettable sight when in flower.  Very easy to establish from cuttings.  At the lower altitudes it will not usually live long and gaps occur after three or four years.

BRUNFELSIA : The species uniflora is to be preferred to the less robust Americana.  Makes a good hedge, flowers well and can be trimmed to shape.  Is best when kept to 5 feet or less.  It is best to use suckers from old bushes as cuttings do not strike very easily.  Seed is available in some countries.

CODIAEUM VARIEGATUM var. pictum : In hedges, typeswith the same leaf form are to be preferred as they usually have the same vigour.  For very small hedges up to 4 feet, the linear-leaved type is very good and, because of its natural erect habit, needs little trimming.  The larger types, such as ‘Baron Rothschild’, will make hedges up to 10 feet.  All need care during the dry season or they will lose all their leaves.  Easily established from cuttings.

DURANTA REPENS : Makes a large thorny hedge up to about 8 feet in height.  If allowed to become too high, becomes bare at the bottom.  Is rather difficult to control and should be used more for a boundary than a formal shaped hedge.  Makes a wonderful show when in bloom and afterwards when fruiting.  Can be grown from seed, but strikes so easily from cuttings that they are to be preferred.  Grows quickly and should be somewhere about 4 feet hight in the second season, if manured.

EUGENIA MICHELII—‘Barbados or Pitanga Cherry’ : Very slow growing, but makes an excellent hedge which can be controlled at any height between 3 and 10 feet.  Will take about twenty years to get to 10 feet.  Trims to shape very well and, although it takes time, makes one of the best hedges in the tropics.

HIBISCUS : The species Rosa-sinensis and its many hybrids all make lovely hedges, the more vigorous ones being good up to 8 feet.  It is as well not to mix plants of different colours unless they are known to have the same vigour, or the hedge may develop thin patches.  The less vigorous should be controlled to 4 feet.  The species schizo-petalus is not robust enough to make a good hedge.

IXORA : The species coccinea makes one of the finest hedges to be seen in the tropics, but it is very difficult to establish; if planted from cuttings it will need replacements for three years.  It is easier to grow from suckers taken from old bushes.  Grows slowly and will not reach a height of 4 feet for at least five or six years.  On the other hand, it has the longest life of all the hedge plants and stands trimming well; in fact, constant trimming seems to make it bloom more freely.  Is well worth all the trouble taken to establish it.

LAWSONIA INERMIS—‘Henna’ : An excellent small hedge of up to 2 ½ feet.  Bears fragrant but insignificant flowers.  Must be pruned back in the early years to make it branch well at the base.  Easily grown from seed.

NERIUM INDICUM—‘Oleander’ : At its best at 8 to 10 feet high, when it makes a strong, thick flowering hedge, but is not suitable for close trimming.  The larger branches should be pruned back occasionally and the base suckers allowed to grow.  Needs manure or fertiliser once a year to keep it in good condition.  The different colours can be mixed if desired.  Cuttings.

ONCOBA SPINOSA : A large, spiny hedge, suitable only for boundaries.  Seed can be planted every 2 or 3 feet and the bushes will grow together in about four years.  Not suitable for close trimming.

PITHECOLOBIUM UNQUIS-CALI—‘Madras Thorn’; ‘Tanganikya Thorn’ : A quick growing hedge which needs to be controlled carefully in the first few years or it will become thin at the base.  Will grow to 10 feet and can be trimmed to shape.  Easily grown from seed, but cuttings do not strike very easily.

PLUMBAGO AURICULATA : A small hedge which can be kept trimmed to 2 feet.  Has an abundance of blue flowers.  The white variety alba is less robust, and if mixed in with P. auriculata, should be given extra manure.

POLYSCIAS—‘African Holly’ : All species make good hedges, but they must be controlled rigidly.  For smaller hedges of about 3 to 4 feet the species filicifolia or fruticosa are to be preferred.  Strikes readily from cuttings.

THEVETIA PERUVIANA—‘Milk Bush’; ‘Gamboge’ : One of the most useful hedging plants; can be trimmed to shape at any height between 2 and 10 feet.  Its pale green foliage and deep yellow flowers (which are produced in abundance when grown above 4 feet) make it most attractive.  Seed germinates very easily, but usually there are sufficient self-sown seedlings under old bushes to provide all that is required.

THUNBERGIA ERECTA : Very good as a small hedge up to 4 feet, when it can be trimmed to shape and will always look fresh with its lovely blue flowers.  Cuttings strike easily.

THE PLANTING OF AVENUES

October 18, 2011 Garden Design / Uncategorized
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There is little need to speak of the beauty of a well-planted avenue of trees and the welcome shade they give.  Unfortunately, the full effect of an avenue is lost if the trees have been planted too close to the road or driveway.  For most types of trees suitable for avenues, a good guide is that they should be planted no nearer the side of the drive than their own width when fully grown.  This will ensure that they do not overhang the drive to the extent that lower branches can be damaged by vehicles.  Spacing between trees must largely be determined by their width, and suggested spacings are given against the names in the list below.

If you are proposing to plant an avenue, plant a few extra seedlings in tubs or half drums so that should any of the avenue seedlings die in the first two years, replacing them will be an easy matter.

Bauhinia purpurea : deciduous, root spread not great—20 feet.

Cassia Fistula : deciduous for short period—25 feet.

Cassia marginata : deciduous, very graceful—25 feet.

Cassia multijuga : deciduous, sheltered positions—20 feet.

Delonix regia : deciduous, very spreading—35 to 40 feet.

Eucalyptus citriodora : can grow very large in drier areas—25 to 30 feet.

Lagerstroemia tomentosa : deciduous, erect and compact growth—20 feet.

Peltophorum ferrugineum : very large—40 feet.

Pterocarpus echinatus : erect, good foliage—25 feet.

Tabebuia rosea : good for a small avenue, very symmetric—15 feet.

Terminalia Catappa : very spreading; rich colour effect on leaves before falling—40 feet.

PALMS

Palms, wherever they are grown, always seem to bring with them an impression of sunshine and warmth and for most people symbolize the tropics.  Most gardens in the tropics can be improved by the addition of palms; they can be used in a variety of ways and take up far less land than trees.

Although most palms, once they are established, are tough and will take a lot of bad treatment, handsome specimens are not come by easily.  They need the same care as trees and respond well to 1 lb. of mixed fertiliser spread round the root area once a year.

ARECA CATECHU—‘Betel Nut’ : A tall, slim-stemmed palm with pinnate leaves held in a bunch at the top.  During growth, the dead leaves fall and leave the stem clean with very decorative rings marking the places where the leaves grew.  Grows to a height of 100 feet, but it is rare to see one above 50 feet.  Look effective in a group of five or so, as there is usually variance in growth.  Easy to grow from seed, which is produced in drupes of 20-30 orange, fibre-covered nuts.

ARENGA PINNATA, syn. A. saccharifera—‘Toddy Palm’ : A large, handsome palm growing to some 30 or 40 feet, with a thick, strong stem.  The pinnate leaves can reach as much as 20 feet in length, with black fibre around the leaf axils.  Flowers held in striking, long pendulous strings.  Most effective when grown in isolation. Grows from seed.

BORASSUS FLABELLIFER : Grows to a height of 70 feet, with a strong straight stem.  The leaves are large and grow in the shape of a fan.  Bears fruit almost as large as a coconut.  Should be planted in a permanent position as if the tap root, which is sent down almost immediately, is damaged, the palm will die.  Excellent for avenues, when they should be planted 20 feet apart.  Looks very untidy unless the old leaves are sawn off up to the axils; if well done, the axils make a very attractive pattern on the trunk; usually when the palm is between fifteen and twenty years old, the axils will split off simultaneously, leaving the trunk bare.

CARYOTA URENS—‘Toddy Palm’ : Tall, with thick stem and pinnate leaves.  Can be grown as a specimen or amongst a collection.  Grows from seed.

COCOS NUCIFERA : The coconut of commerce.  Very graceful, with stem invariably curved.  A very tall variety can grow to a height of 100 feet, but most specimens seen are not more than 40 feet.  There is a dwarf type which only reaches 25 to 30 feet.  Excellent in groups. Most at home in sandy soil or by brackish water.  Seed can be germinated in a nursery bed, and should be planted length-wise, half its depth being left exposed above ground.

ELAEIS GUINEENSIS—‘The Oil Palm’ : Can be used effectively for avenues or as a specimen plant.  Can grow to 50 feet in high rainfall areas.  More decorative and suitable for a garden when young.  If well looked after, will produce large pinnate leaves in abundance.  Seeds germinates poorly and it is better to buy good seedlings if they are available. In avenues, a spacing of 25 feet is sufficient.

HOWEA BELMOREANA, syn. Kentia Belmoreana : A slender palm, growing 25 to 30 feet.  If allowed to grow as a clump, is most decorative and reaches up to 12 feet across.  Produces suckers at the base by which it can be propagated, but also grows from seed easily.  Leaves pinnate in a dense crown.

PHOENIX DACTYLIFERA—‘Date Palm’ : A tall palm which will grow in most areas.  Leaves pinnate, held in a terminal cluster and arching very gracerully.  Of use as a specimen in a collection.  Grows easily from seed.  Except in the drier areas, fruits are not fleshy enough for human consumption.

RAPHIA spp. ‘Raffia Palm’ : Very useful in a collection and grows well in sandy or brackish areas.  Strong growing, often producing two or three plams from one seed as this frequently contains more than one embryo.

Grows up to 20 feet.  Pinnate leaves often as much as 7 feet long.  Stem covered with fibrous hairs.  A very valuable palm; is tapped for wine and the stem is used for raffia and piassava.  Easily grown from seed.  Young seedlings make good pot plants.

ROYSTONEA OLERACEA syn. Oreodoxa oleracea—‘Cabbage Palm’ : One of the most handsome palms and, when established, very strong.  Makes a magnificent avenue spaced at about 25 feet apart.  Grows to 40 feet or more.  Leaves large, pinnate and dark green.  The central shoot can be cut out and eaten, when it is considered to be a great delicacy, but of course this kills the palm.  Grown from seed.

R.REGIA syn. Oreodoxa regia—‘Royal Palm’ : A stately palm for avenues, and looks well in groups or in isolation. Grows to a height of 30 feet or more.  Very strong growing.  Trunk is ringed and has a characteristic swelling in the middle.  Leaves pinnate, grow up to 10 feet long and arch gracefully.  Grown from seed.

SABAL BLACKBURNIA—‘Fan Palm’ : A slow-growing and beautiful palm, the large fan-shaped leaves often up to 5 feet wide.  The leaf stalks are covered with a grayish powder and a fibrous material surrounds the leaf axils.  Very fine as a specimen palm.  Not a very large specimen.  Grows from seed.

CYCADS

This very ancient family is the most primitive of all flowering plants.  Although only a few species may be of interest for the garden, they do make good specimen plants, particularly in large lawns.

CYCAS CIRCINNALIS : Slow growing, has an erect stem after three or four years.  In older plants, leaves grow up to 12 feet.  Inflorescence in a pineapple-shaped cone, with male and female on different plants, produced when the plant is six or seven years old.  Can reach a height of 20 feet or more.

CYCAS REVOLUTA : Smaller than the above; sometimes branches out after flowering.  Leaves 30 inches or more in length, leaflets 4 to 8 inches.  To improve appearance, remove leaves as they die.  Suckers are occasionally formed at the base of the plant, but it can also be grown from seed.  A very fine subject.

CYCAS SIAMENSIS : Grows to 5 feet.  The young leaves are covered with a soft, yellow-grey down and develop rather like ferns.  Older leaves reach 4 feet in length, leaflets up to 8 inches.  Grown from seed or suckers.

ORNAMENTAL AND FLOWERING TREES(3)

October 18, 2011 Garden Design / Uncategorized
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LAGERSTROEMIA LOUDONI (Lythraceae) syn. L. Flos-reginae—‘Queen Flower’ : A medium-sized tree often poor in shape because of die-back.  The lovely lilac flowers are held in terminal panicles, but the effect is often spoilt because the black seed cases persist—they should be pruned off.  Seed is often difficult to germinate and correct moisture control in the seed tray is essential.

L. TOMENTOSA : Little known, this tree has a more erect habit than L. Loudoni, and is excellent for avenues.  The white flowers are held at the ends of the branches, with a bunch-like effect.  Deciduous, flowers after the new leaves at the beginning of the rains.  Grows to a height of up to 40 feet with a spread of 20 feet.  Seed often not viable.

MELIA AZEDARACH (Meliaceae)—‘Persian Lilac’ : A delicate and beautiful medium-sized tree, bearing masses of small purple and white flowers, and followed by small bead-like seeds, from which is derived one common name ‘Bead Tree’.  Grows up to 25 feet with a spread of 15 feet.  Grows easily from seed.

M. INDICA syn. Azadirachta indica—‘Neem’ : A quick-growing tree, usually planted for avenues or fuel.  Keeps its finely-cut leaves during the dry season.  Fruit is said to attract fruit bats.  Grows from seed.

MESUA FERREA (Guttiferae)—‘Ironwood’ : Reaches medium size and is very slow growing.  Its greatest attraction is the bright red young leaves which are produced twice a year.  Very difficult to propagate.

MILLETIA LAURENTII (Leguminosae) : A large tree, grows to 30 feet or more.  Deciduous.  Indigenous to Nigeria.  With its mass of blue flowers, it is spectacular when in bloom at the end of the dry season, but needs plenty of room.  Seeds well in natural bhbitat (high forest) but poorly under garden conditions.  Occasionally produces suckers.

MONODORA TENUIFOLIA (Annonaceae)—‘The Orchid Tree’ : Medium-sized deciduous tree, covered in the dry season with flowers resembling orchids.  The flowers have waxy, thick, dull-yellow petals, blotched with brown.  Grows well at low altitudes  Seed.

ONCOBA SPINOSA (Flacourtiaceae) : A small deciduous tree, its branches armed with long spikes.  Produces masses of white dog-rose like flowers at the end of the dry season, with small crops throughout the rains.  These highly scented flowers are further enhanced by the dense mass of bright yellow stamens.  Most effective up to six years, but then tends to become untidy in parts.  Seeds profusely.  The round, orange-like fruits smell putrid if left during the rains.

PARMENTIERA CERIFERA (Bignoniaceae)—‘Candle Tree’ : A small tree, not very well known, with small light-green leaflets.  The pinky-white flowers are produced on short stems from the branches and main trunk, and look most effective against the dark bark.  The flower are followed by yellow cylindrical pods.  A most interesting specimen tree, well worth a place in not too small a garden.  Grows from seed.

PELTOPHORUM FERRUGINEUM (Leguminosae) : Very large and symmetrical.  Grows quickly and makes an imposing avenue.  Deep yellow flowers are held in large panicles, followed by bright crimson pods.  If space permits, very well worth growing.  Reaches up to 60 feet in height and about 30 feet across.  Grows from seed.

PIPTADENIA PEREGRINA (Leguminosae) : One of the largest of the high forest trees growing up to 100 feet.  Only thrives if planted among other trees, through which it will grow later.  Magnificent when mature.  Useful when a monumental specimen is required.

PITHECOLOBIUM DULCE (Leguminosae)—‘Manilla Tamarind’ ; ‘Madras Thorn’ : A large slow-growing tree, except in high rainfall conditions, where it will reach 10 feet in three years and make a good screen.  Leaves 2-pinnate, leaflets small.  Grows from seed.

PTEROCARPUS ECHINATUS (Leguminosae) : A fine, erect tree growing to a height of 30 feet or more.  Fine, pale green feathery foliage.  Looks well as a background.  The large clusters of pale yellow flowers are followed by circular, winged pods.  Grows from seed.

SOLANUM MACRANTHUM (Solanaceae)—‘Potato Tree’ : A small, quick-growing tree.  Will reach to 14 feet and makes an effective screen.  The large leaves, as well as the large bluish-purple flowers, are attractive.  Grown from seed.

SPATHODEA CAMPANULATA (Bignoniaceae) : Grows to over 50 feet and is really only suitable for large gardens or parks.  Has big pinnate leaves, and after 4 years bears very large clusters of orange-red flowers.  Grows from seed.

TABEBUIA ROSEA (Bignoniaceae) : Grows to about 20 feet.  The rosy-mauve flowers are held in large clusters all over the tree, and when in full bloom are a memorable sight.  Does not seed readily.  Grows from seed or cuttings, but seed must be scarified.

TAMARINDUS INDICUS (Leguminosae)—‘Tamarind’ : Will grow to 60 feet, but most specimens seen have been smaller.  A pretty tree—its pinnate leaves give it a delicate appearance.  Has yellow flowers, striped with red, but they are not plentiful.  Grows from seed.

TERMINALIA CATAPPA (Combretaceae)—‘Indian Almond’ : ‘Olive-bark tree’ : Grows to a height of 30 feet, with a still wider spread.  Excellent for shade purposes as the branches grow out horizontally.  The large oval leaves are dropped twice a year, but as the new ones appear almost immediately, there is little loss of shade.  The kernels of the nuts are edible.  Grows from seed.

ORNAMENTAL AND FLOWERING TREES(2)

October 17, 2011 Garden Design / Uncategorized
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C. FISTULA—‘Indian Laburnum’ : One of the most beautiful members of this genus.  Grows to a height of 30 feet, with about the same spread.  Flowers are deep yellow, held in long—as much as 18 inches—pendulous racemes.  Remains in flower for over a month during the dry season and is followed by long, black, decorative pods.  Grows easily from seed.

C. GRANDIS : Large and spreading, reaching up to 40 feet, and bearing masses of pale pink flowers during the dry season; these are followed by thick fleshy pods.  Grows easily from seed.

C. Marginata : Has the most delicate appearance of all cassias.  A medium sized spreading tree, with slightly drooping branches.  Rose-coloured flowers produced along the young branches in the early rains.  Not widely known, but would be an asset to any garden.  Rather subject to attack by white ant.  Grows from seed.

C. MULTIJUGA : A small tree, growing up to 20 feet.  When young is a magnificent sight with its large, erect panicles of deep yellow flowers.  Prone to damage by strong wind, when the shape is spoilt.  Shy to set seed.

C. NEDOSA : Known as the Pink Cassia, and probably more widely recognized than any of the others.  A very shapely, spreading tree which grows up to 30 feet.  Flowers at the beginning of the rains, and is deciduous.  Branches tend to die out.  Grows from seed.

C. SEIBERIANA : Very similar to C. fistula, but the raceme is thicker at the end.  Flowers at the end of the dry season.  Is larger and more leafy than C. Fistula : Grows from seed.  Native of Nigeria.

C. SIAMEA : The poorest of all the yellow-flowering cassias and is planted mainly for fuel or windbreaks.  Has a poor shape and a tendency to die back from the growing point.  Roots, if left in the ground, are said to attract a fungus which is detrimental to food crops.

C. SPECTABILIS : A very attractive tree which produces spectacular yellow spikes of flowers during the rains.  Very susceptible to damage by wind—branches of as much as 6 inches diameter can be torn off.  Grows from seed.

CASUARINA EQUISETIFOLIA (Casuarinaceae)—‘Whistling Pine’ : A tall and slender tree, well known throughout the tropics.  Looks better in groups.  Growth is depressed underneath because of the thick mat of pine needle-likd leaves.  Will thrive on the worst sandy soils if rainfall is sufficient.  Seeds are sometimes hard to germinate and young seedlings need a lot of care taken of them when transplanting.  Should not be planted too close to a house as they attract lightning.  Thrives in sea-shore gardens.

CHRYSOPHYLLUM CAINITO (Sapotaceae)—‘Star Apple’ : A large tree which, if planted well back, will make an imposing avenue.  Flowers are insignificant, but the large dark leaves have an underside of rich copper colour and look most effective when a breeze keeps them in movement.  Grows from seed.

CRESCENTIA CUJETE (Bignoniaceae)—‘Calabash Tree’ : A very interesting specimen for the corner of a garden; its large fruits can make it look most spectacular.  Grows to a height of 15 feet, with a spread a little over.  Grows from seed.

DELONIX REGIA (Leguminosae) syn. Poinciana regia—‘Flamboyante’ ; ‘Flame Tree’ : In all probability the most widely grown flowering tree in the tropics, and very understandably so.  Must be given plenty of room.  Has a magnificent spreading habit, and when in full bloom at the beginning of the rains, makes an unforgettable picture.  Flowers brilliant flame, with cream flecks on the lower petals.  Blooms after five years, or even earlier.  Grows from seed.  Will reach 30 feet, with similar spread.

DIALIUM GUINEENSE (Leguminosae)—‘Velvet Tamarind’ : A medium-sized tree, native of the West Coast of Africa.  Bushy, looks very attractive as a background tree with its dark brown velvety pods.  Grows from seed.

EUCALYPTUS CITRIODORA (Myrtaceae) : Grows well in high rainfall or drier areas.  Tall and graceful, with narrower leaves.  Suitable for avenues, and looks well in clumps.  Is a gross feeder and grass will not grow beneath it.

FICUS ELASTICA (Moraceae) : A very large tree, developing a spread of up to 50 feet.  Large, oval shiny leaves.  Stem very buttressed when old.  A magnificent shade tree, but needs plenty of room.  Roots often visible above ground.  Rarely seeds, grow from cuttings.

GLIRICIDIA MACULATA (Leguminosae) : A small tree which is often used for shading plantation crops.  When in bloom at the end of the dry season it is completely covered with pink flowers.  Grown from seed or cuttings, but seed needs chipping.  Can be kept pollarded.  Rarely grows higher than 20 feet.

GREVILLIA ROBUSTA (Proteaceae)—‘Silver Oak’ : A delightful tree very suitable for avenues as it grows uniformly.  Foliage finely cut and silver-grey beneath, looking its best when disturbed in a breeze.  Does not seed well at low altitudes.  Grows to 30 feet at most.

JACARANDA FILICIFOLIA (Bignoniaceae) : A wonderful tree for growing in the drier areas of the tropics.  In high rainfall areas it tends to become straggly and needs constant pruning.  Fully grown it reaches a height of over 40 feet, spreading to almost the same distance.  When the tubular, deep violet flowers, held in clusters at the tips of the shoots, are in full bloom it is a most lovely sight.  Takes about seven years to flower.  Leaves bipinnate and finely divided.  Young seedlings can be used with effect to provide foliage in beds of annual flowers.  Grows from seed.

KEGELIA PINNATA (Orchidaceae)—‘Sausage Tree’ : A medium-sized tree, well branching and with fine foliage.  The sausage-shaped fruits are effective.  Suitable for parks or arboretums.  Grows from seed.

ORNAMENTAL AND FLOWERING TREES(1)

October 17, 2011 Garden Design / Uncategorized
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ALBIZZIA SASSA (Leguminosae) : A fine, large, graceful tree.  Grows up to 30 feet with a high canopy spreading up to 30 feet.  Has feathery pinnate foliage.  Is often used as a shade tree for crops such as coffee.  Looks well against other trees with its pale green foliage.  Easily grown from seed and grows comparatively quickly.

AMHERATIA NOBILIS (leguminosae) : This has been called the most beautiful tree in the tropics.  It is not widely known as the seed is rarely viable and cuttings are difficult to strike.  The flowers, with red petals and bracts, are borne on pendant racemes 2 feet long.  Attains a height of up to 60 feet.  Should be planted alone so that it can be viewed from a distance.  Upright in habit and grows rather slowly.

BAUHINIA PURPUREA (Leguminosae) : A very graceful small tree.  Has a spread of up to 25 feet and grows to about the same height.  Leaves have two lobes, from which the name was derived—twin botanist brothers Bauhin.  Often flowers twice a year with the main flush at the beginning of the rains.  Flowers are held along the new wood, and sometimes when the tree is bare of leaves, they make a beautiful picture of a type loved by Japanese artists.  The very delicate flowers are pink, with a white spot on the lower petal and purple spots on the uppermost.  Flowers after three years.  Easily grown from seed.

B. VIOLACEA : Similar to the above, but the branches have not the same graceful curve.  The dark violet petals are more wavy also, and the whole flower has somewhat the appearance of an orchid.  Other colours—pink and whit—have been seen and they are probably hybrids.  All grow easily from seed.

BOMBAX (Bombacaceae)—‘Red Cotton Tree’ : A very large tree which grows up to 100 feet.  The trunk is thick and rarely branches from the lower half.  Deciduous.  Flowers when the branches are bare in the mid-dry season, and looks very beautiful.  The flowers resemble large tulips, with thick, velvety bright red petals : said to be edible.  Should only be planted where a lot of space is available, in parks etc.  Grows slowly and has magnificent buttress roots.

BROWNEA GRANDICEPS (Leguminosae) : A handsome, spreading tree, which reaches a height of 30 feet.  The young foliage, produced in long, flaccid bunches, is particularly beautiful.  A lovely sight when in full flower, with large red blossoms held at the ends of the branches.  Can be grown from seed, which should be scarified.  Is a slow grower.

CALLISTEMON sp. (Myrtaceae) ‘Bottlebrush’ : Very similar to eucalyptus, but with narrower and smaller leaves; in some species these are often a pale yellow.  Main beauty lies in the brightly coloured flowers (either pink or red), held in dense terminal clusters, resembling a bottle brush.  Spreads more than the eucalyptus, and in its earlier stages would be considered a shrub.  Looks most effective in front of larger trees, or with foliage seen against stone walls.

CALLITRIS RHOMBOIDEA (Pinaceae) : Rather like a cyprus in shape and can be used most effectively in large gardens.  Grows to 30 feet.  Foliage light green.  Grown from seed.

CASSIA (Leguminosae) : Probably the most widely-grown family in the tropics.  Most of its members are graceful and produce an abundance of flowers.  All can be grown easily from seed.  To retain the natural shape of the tree it is better to grow the seedlings singly in bamboo or clay pots; in this way they can be transplanted without the necessity of pruning back.

SHRUBS WITH BEAUTIFUL LEAVES

October 15, 2011 Garden Design / Uncategorized
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Even the most exotic flowers can be made to look more beautiful if the foliage of the surrounding plants has been planned to show them off.  Shrubs grown for their foliage are as much a part of the garden as flower beds or lawns.  They can give depth and perspective to a garden and render less noticeable the lack of colour when flowering plants are not at their best.

Foliage shrubs need just as much care and attention as those which are grown principally for their flowers.  In the dry season.  When their foliage, makes such a welcome contribution to the colours in the garden, they should be well looked after.  Mulching is most important.  Many of them, such as the crotons, will lose their leaves if they are not mulched heavily and watered.  Some of the rich colours in the leaves can be enhanced if an application of fertiliser is given at the beginning of the rains.

Just as with the flowering types, plantings should be planned so that the best colour combinations and shapes are brought together, and that those with finely cut leaves are set against shrubs which have a different leaf form.

Many of the shrubs which are described grow very large, and these should naturally only be considered for background purposes, but there are others which grow to no more than 3 feet, and these can be used either as individual spot plants entirely on their own, or in the lawn, or as part of a group of flowering shrubs.

ACALYPHA HISPIDA(Euphorbiaceae), syn. A. Sanderi—‘Red Hot Cats’ Tails’ : A large-branching shrub.  Grows to a height of 10 feet but can be kept lower if pruned.  It has large, bright green leaves and long red catkin-like flowers; the latter are sometimes as much as 20 inches long.  This is a very showy shrub and the flowers last for a long time.  Excellent when grown as a spot plant or in a group.  Cuttings strike easily and will flower in the first year.  Grows in sun or shade, but the colours are richer when grown in the sun.  Is very prone to mealy bug attack.

A. TORTA : An erect shrub which rarely grows to more than 5 feet.  The dark blotched olive-green leaves are curiously contorted.  Not the most exciting species, but of use when planted with other darker-leaved types.  Can be grown from cuttings.

A. WILKESIANA : A very handsome shrub.  Leaves are greeny-bronze, splashed with red and crimson.  It is erect in habit and branches well, but as it gets older it looks rather bare at the bottom and should therefore be planted behind smaller subjects so that this bareness can be hidden.  The variety macrophylla has larger and darker leaves and looks particularly well if planted against shrubs such as Thevetia, or others with light green leaves.  Grows to a height of 10 feet.  Prone to attack from the mealy bug.  There is another variety, marginata, which is sometimes named as a separate species.  This is the largest of those named; it grows to a height of 20 feet and can attain a width of 12 feet.  Olive green leaves with cream margins shaded to rosy carmine.  Excellent as a background.  If well manured, it will make an effective screen in two years.  All the varieties mentioned strike easily from cuttings.

CODIAEUM VARIEGATUM var. pictum (Euphorbiaceae)—Commonly known as Crotons : This species has a remarkably fine range of colours and colour combinations.  There are four main leaf shapes—linear, lance-shaped, oval and lobed.  Those with linear leaves are either flat or contorted with margins either crisped or normal.  The colour range includes practically everything from pale yellow to dark purple in many pleasing combinations.  Some forms are very large.  The variety ‘Baron Rothschild’, with oval leaves, grows to a height of 20 feet.  Many of the varieties with linear leaves will almost reach this height, but they grow much more slowly.  A collection of the different forms can give a most pleasing effect, particularly if height is taken into account when they are planted.  All types will grow in full sun, but if a long dry season is experienced they need quite a bit of care as they lose their leaves very easily.  If this is to be avoided, watering and mulching are essential.  All types grow readily from cuttings, and some set seed which is viable.  Attacks by mites during the dry season will also cause leaf drop.

CORDYLINE TERMINALIS (Liliaceae)—Often called Dracaena terminalis : This plant branches very little and its leaves are bunched in crowded terminal heads.  It is a very variable species of which there are many beautiful varieties.  It varies also in height; some will reach to 12 feet, but on the whole they are around 3 to 5 feet.  The long, oval leaves are basically green, with red, crimson or yellow markings.  If the plants are grown in a shaded position, the colours will be more vivid.  In some of the varieties the old leaves have more vivid colouring than the young.

Cuttings from branches and suckers, when they appear, will strike if they are cut into 3-inch lengths and planted ½ an inch below the surface in a free-draining mixture.

DIEFFENBACHIA PICTA (Araceae)—‘Dumb Cane’ : The name ‘Dumb Cane’ alludes to the effects of chewing the leaf, which is said to cause temporary dumbness.  The genus is named after the gardener at the Schonbrunn, Austria.  It is essentially a shade plnt and will not grow in full sunlight.  It grows strongly, and if well manured will reach to a height of 5 feet.  Its great beauty lies in its large green, leathery leaves, blotched with yellow.  Does not branch, but sends up suckers from the roots; in an old plant, this gives the appearance of shrubby growth.  Strikes easily from young suckers if taken as soon as they appear, and also from pieces of stem.  There are several varieties which are very similar : D. antiquiensis, a darker green and blotched with yellow; D. bausei, which is more predominantly yellow and has yellowish-green stems.

D. BOWMANNII : Similar in habit to the previous species, but the leaves are larger, being up to 2 ½ feet long, with older leaves as much as 1 foot wide.  Basically green, with irregular mottling in a paler yellowish-green.  Grows to the same height as the previous species.  Must be grown in shade.

DRACAENA (Lilaceae) : Several of the smaller-growing species are suitable for the garden and should be treated in the same way as cordyline, of which they are a near relative.

EUPHORBIA PULCHERRIMA (Euphorbiaceae)—‘Poinsettia’ : A really lovely shrub, which bears bright scarlet bracts in the dry season.  This can be the most magnificent plant in the garden in the height of the dry season.  The scarlet bracts are so brilliant that lack of colour elsewhere in the garden is not noticed.  Can grow to 10 feet, and at least that in diameter.  Excellent as a spot plant, in groups or against a background of dark foliage.  Does need careful attention, however, in the dry season.  If not heavily mulched and watered, some of the leaves may fall and it will not do itself justice.  Often sets seed, but can be grown easily from cuttings.  To get the best-coloured bracts, grow in full sun.  Hybrids with pink and yellow bracts have now been developed.

GRATOPHYLLUM PICTUM (Acanthaceae) : The name refers to the markings on leaves—graphos (to write) and phyllon (the leaf).  It is a small, strongly growing shrub with very ornamental leaves.  In one variety they are bronze-green and another has irregular pale yellow splashing.  Will reach a height of 8 feet in partial shade.  The flowers are bluey-mauve, held in terminal panicles.  Cuttings of young wood strike easily at the beginning of the rains.  A very good subject for planting under trees or in a partially shaded border.  It is erect and tidy in growth and needs little attention other than mulching in the dry season and the application of fertiliser at the onset of the rains.

MUSSAENDA (Rubiaceae) : A genus of nearly forty species, all of which are indigenous to the tropics.  It is distinguished by having one sepal much larger than the others, giving the effect of a coloured bract; for this reason they are included here although they are strictly flowering shrubs.

M. ERYTHROPHYLLA—‘Ashanti Blood’ : A large, trailing shrub with downy leaves.  Bears yellow flowers which have a large, scarlet sepal.  Most effective during the dry season.  Seems to have a marked tolerance to brackish conditions and will do well on wet, swampy land.  Grows easily from cuttings and sets viable seed.  Can grow to a clump about 5 feet in height and 10 feet in diameter.

M.LUTEOLA : This has a stronger growth than the last and can grow to a height of up to 15 feet.  Leaves mid-green, flowers yellow with one large yellow sepal.  Sometimes the sepal may be white, and there are also some plants with predominantly white sepals.  Thrives in the same conditions as the previous species.  There is also a smaller form.

PANDANUS SANDERI (pandanaceae)—‘Variegated Screw-pine’ : Grows to great height and girth in the wetter areas, as much as 20 feet in height and breadth.  The long leaves, striped green and yellow, grow in whorls from a short stem.  They are finely toothed at the edges, and this should be borne in mind when planting as when they begin to spread they are quite sharp enough to tear clothes.  This is a noble shrub and should be given ample room so that it can be appreciated from a distance.  If grown in full sun, will need mulching and watering during a prolonged dry season.  When a few years old it produces stilt roots.  Small shoots, preferably not more than 12 inches long, will root quickly in the early rains.  If grown in pots for a few months, they will make pleasant verandah plants until planted out.

PEDILANTHUS TITHYMALOIDES var. variegate (Euphorbiaceae) : A succulent shrub which is very useful for shaded positions.  Grows to a height of 5 feet, but with pruning can be controlled to 2 feet.  The oval, keeled leaves are green with pale yellow markings; these markings turn pink when exposed to full sun.  Flowers are in red terminal cymes, but are not produced very frequently.  Can be used as a dwarf hedge in shady places.  Cuttings strike easily.

POLYSCIAS (Araliaceae)—‘african Holly’ : Some species were previously known as Panax.  Unfortunately, not appreciated as specimen shrubs as they  grow so easily and are usually grown for strictly utilitarian purposes.  Rarely included in collections.  All the species given below make handsome subjects, but as they are usually grown in hedgesthey are rarely seen to the best advantage.

P. BALFOURIANA, syn. Panax Balfouriana : A large, erect shrub which can grow to a height of 20 feet and a diameter of only 6 feet.  The leaves are rounded and toothed, dark green edged with yellow, produced in threes.  A handsome background shrub and useful in a corner.  Will grow in full sun or partial shade, and needs little attention.  Strikes very easily from cuttings.

P. FILICIFOLIA : Not as large as the previous species—grows up to 12 feet.  Leaves mid-green and deeply cut, making a dense mass.  Grows from cuttings.

P. FRUTICOSA : Similar to the above, but is smaller and the foliage is more finely cut.  Grows from cuttings.

RAVENALA MADAGASCARENSIS (Musaceae)—‘Traveller’s Tree’.  A near relative of the banana.  Will grow to a great height, but specimens over 30 feet are rare.  Needs a lot of room so that the full drama of its shape can be appreciated.  Develops on a central stem, the leaves spreading out into a huge fan.  Is most spectacular.  It is reputed that the leaves point due east-west.  Suckers are produced occasionally from the base of the stem.  These should be carefully removed, together with a portion of root, before they are more than 2 feet high and potted up for new plantings.

SANCHEZIA NOBILIS (Acanthaceae) : A handsome foliage plant suitable for shady positions.  Will grow into a shrub 10 feet high and just as wide, but tends to straggle when it is large.  The large, oval green leaves have yellow veins and mid-rib and present a very distinctive appearance.  The orange-yellow flowers are borne in spikes.  Very easily grown from cuttings of young wood.

FLOWERING SHRUBS (5)

October 14, 2011 Garden Design / Uncategorized
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RUSSELIA JUNCEA (Scrophulariaceae)—‘Coral Plant’ : A very pretty, graceful little plant : its rush-like branches bear scarlet racemes of bell-like flowers which bend delicately.  Grows to 4 feet and likes semi-shade conditions.  Grows from seeds and suckers and does not move easily.  Makes a delightful plant for a border under a house wall.  Prefers a well-limed soil.

SAMBUCUS CANADENSIS (Caprifoliaceae)—‘Elderberry’: A robust shrub growing to a height of 10 feet.  The small, yellowish-white flowers are produced in dense clusters from the ends of the young shoots.  Will grow in full sun or partial shade, but it flowers more profusely in sun.  Cuttings grow very easily and plants will bloom in the first year.  Does not usually set seed in the tropics.  Does not object to being heavily pruned if only a small bush is required.

STENOLOBIUM STANS (Bignoniaceae)—Formerly known as Tecoma stans : This is a strong-growing shrub, reaching to 12 feet.  Has bright yellow trumpet-shaped flowers held in clusters, and when in full bloom makes a good show.  The seed pods which follow the flowers in clusters are also decorative.  Grown from seed; will bloom in the second year.  Plant in full sun : will do quite well in shade, but makes a lot of foliage.  Has a habit of getting straggly and should be pruned each year.  Excellent as a background shrub.

STROPHANTHUS sp. (Apocynaceae) : This is a most dramatic semi-climbing shrub; is strong and quick-growing.  The flowers are grouped along the ends of the branches, and are extremely beautiful : the petals have long thread-like tails, colour cream with purple or crimson splashes.  Grows from seed or cuttings.  Likes shade.  Rarely seen in gardens, which is a great pity.

TABERNAEMONTANA CORONARIA (Apocynaceae)—‘Adam’s apple’; ‘Crape Jasmine’; ‘Nero’s Crown’ : A very beautiful little plant—grows only to 3 or 4 feet.  The white flowers are produced in profusion and sweeten the air at night.  Is excellent for planting in front of larger shrubs.  Needs little attention, but should be heavily mulched at the end of the rains.  Likes full sun.  Grows from cuttings, which take one to two years to flower.

TECOMARIA CAPENSIS (Bignoniaceae) syn. Tecoma capensis : Although naturally a trailing plant, it can be controlled to form a small shrub : in this form it can be used for the front of an herbaceous border or as a foil to set off larger types.  When the orange-scarlet flowers are in bloom it is particularly attractive.  Grows in full sun.  Propagate from cuttings.

THEVETIA PERUVIANA (Apocynaceae)—‘Milk bush’; ‘Gamboge’ : Another adaptable shrub; it can be allowed to grow to its full height of 15 feet or controlled to as little as 2 feet.  With its fine, light-green shiny leaves it is a good subject for use with others which have darker leaves.  It has saffron-yellow trumpet-shaped flowers which are borne in terminal clusters and last over a long period.  Seeds profusely, and the easiest way to propagate is to dig up the self-sown seedlings at the beginning of the rains.  There is also an orange-flowered form which is most attractive.  Can grow in full sun.

THUNBERGIA AFFINIS (Acanthaceae) : A small, delicate shrub growing to 3 feet.  It has dark green leaves and dark violet flowers and grows well, planted at a spacing of 10 feet, alongside paths or drives.  Does need occasional pruning to keep it in shape and mulching during the dry season to prevent leaf-fall.  Grows in full sun.

T. ERECTA : This is more widely grown than the former species.  The leaves are larger and of a lighter green; the flowers too are larger and are dark blue in colour with an orange throat.  Grows to a height of 6 feet and needs to be pruned annually.  Grows easily from cuttings.  Likes full sun.  There is a  white variety, alba, and several pale blue hybrids.

TINNEA AETHIOPICA (Labiatae)—‘Velvet Slippers’ : A small shrub, growing from 4 to 6 inches high, bearing many maroon-purple flowers shaped like slippers.  Its chief value is the delightful violet-like perfume produced by the flowers in the middle of the day.  Grows from seed.  Likes sun.

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